<style>
.block {
width: 200px;
height: 100px;
border: 2px solid #ccc;
}
.active {
background: #ccc;
}
</style>
<script src="http://code.jquery.com/jquery-latest.min.js"></script>
<script>
$(function () {
var txt = $('.block').children('p').html();
$('.block').on('click', function (event) {
$(this).toggleClass('active');
($('.block').children('p').html() == txt) ? $('.block').children('p').text('Тратата') : $('.block').children('p').html(txt);
});
})
</script>
<div class="block">
<p><a href="#">Bla-bla</a></p>
</div>