[Nerd]

<a href="#" id="change-css" rel="style_alt.css">Click Here</a>
<script>
function createCookie(name,value,days) {
    if (days) {
        var date = new Date();
        date.setTime(date.getTime()+(days*24*60*60*1000));
        var expires = "; expires="+date.toGMTString();
    }
    else var expires = "";
    document.cookie = name+"="+value+expires+"; path=../";
}

function readCookie(name) {
    var nameEQ = name + "=";
    var ca = document.cookie.split(';');
    for(var i=0;i < ca.length;i++) {
        var c = ca[i];
        while (c.charAt(0)==' ') c = c.substring(1,c.length);
        if (c.indexOf(nameEQ) == 0) return c.substring(nameEQ.length,c.length);
    }
    return null;
}

function eraseCookie(name) {
    createCookie(name,"",-1);
}

document.addEventListener('DOMContentLoaded',function(){

    if(readCookie('css')){
        var e = document.getElementById('test-css');
        e.href = readCookie('css'); 
    }

    var element = document.getElementById('change-css');
    element.addEventListener('click', function (event) { 
        var e = document.getElementById('test-css');
        e.href = this.rel;
        if(readCookie('css')){  
            eraseCookie('css');     
        }
        createCookie('css',this.rel,365); 
        event.preventDefault(); 
    }, false);
})
</script>

Пытаюсь всё же без использования jQuery. Но увы, не работает. Не пойму, чего не хватает.